How to Choose Your First Motorcycle

Your first motorcycle should make you want to ride every day. That sounds obvious, but plenty of new riders buy the bike they think they will grow into and end up riding it less, because it feels tall and heavy every time they have to turn it around in a parking lot. The right first bike is one you can handle with confidence on day one and still enjoy a few years in.

Here is what we tell riders who walk in asking where to start.

Start with how you will ride

Before you look at a single spec sheet, picture your typical week. Short commutes on surface streets? Weekend canyon rides? Dirt roads to a campsite? A bike that suits city riding may not be the one you want for long freeway stretches, and the reverse is true too. Be honest about the riding you will do most, not the trip you might take once.

Fit comes first

The California Motorcycle Handbook puts it plainly: make sure your motorcycle fits you, and your feet should comfortably reach the ground while you are seated.

Seat height on a spec sheet is a starting point, not the whole story. A narrow seat can feel lower than a wide one at the same height, and suspension settles under your weight. Two riders of the same height can feel completely different on the same bike. The only reliable test is to sit on it, lift it off the side stand and hold it upright with both feet down.

What to check while you are seated:

• Feet. Can you get the balls of both feet down? Flat-footed is reassuring, but not essential once you have some practice.
• Reach. Your arms should have a slight bend at the handlebars, with no locked elbows or stretching.
• Controls. Can you cover the clutch and front brake levers comfortably with your fingers?

Here are seat heights for a few bikes new riders often ask us about, as their makers list them:

Several of these offer lower accessory seats, and the Himalayan’s seat adjusts. Ask about options before you rule a bike out.

Weight matters most at walking pace

On the move, almost any well-balanced bike feels lighter than it is. Weight shows up when you are pushing it out of the garage, turning it around on a sloped driveway or holding it up at a stop. Those slow moments are where a heavy bike can get away from you.

The bikes in the table above run roughly 375 to 437 pounds as their makers list them. Makers measure weight differently (with or without fuel, for example), so compare like with like and trust how a bike feels when you lift it off the stand.

How much power do you need?

Less than you think, and that is good news. Our opinion: a modern 350, 400 or 650 is a great place to start.

• 350s and 400s are light and easy to manage, and they are genuinely fun. Royal Enfield lists 20.2 bhp for the Hunter 350, while Triumph lists 39.5 bhp for the Scrambler 400 X and Royal Enfield lists 40 hp for the Himalayan 450. That is plenty for city streets and back roads, and enough for the freeway once you are licensed for it.
• 650s and similar twins, like the SV650 or the Ducati Scrambler, give you more passing power and highway comfort. They make sense if you are a confident learner, are taller, or ride lots of freeway miles.

What matters more than the peak number is how smoothly the bike delivers its power. A predictable throttle and a light clutch let you focus on traffic instead of the bike.

Riding position

• Upright (most roadsters, scramblers and classics): you sit tall with a clear view ahead and little weight on your wrists, which suits city riding.
• Adventure (like the Himalayan): upright and taller, with long-travel suspension for rough roads.
• Sport (clip-ons, rear-set pegs): more weight on your wrists. Great on a fast road, tiring in stop-and-go traffic.

Most new riders are happiest upright. Sit on a few styles and notice where your weight goes.

Get ABS

Antilock brakes keep the wheels from locking when you brake hard, which is exactly when a new rider needs help. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety reports that the rate of fatal crashes is 22% lower for motorcycles with optional ABS than for the same models without it. Every bike in our table lists ABS in its specifications. We would not buy a first bike without it.

New or used?

Both can be the right call.

New means a known history, the manufacturer’s warranty and current safety electronics.

Used can be a sensible first bike, especially if you expect to move up after a season. Just be careful. Check the basics the Handbook lists for any street bike: tires with enough tread and correct pressure, working headlight, taillight, brake light and turn signals, front and rear brakes, a horn and mirrors. Look for fluid leaks and ask for service records. If you are not sure what you are looking at, bring someone who is, or have a shop inspect it.

Budget for gear, not just the bike

California law requires every rider and passenger to wear a helmet that meets the federal DOT standard (FMVSS 218), and the Handbook says the DOT lettering should be applied by the manufacturer, not a removable sticker. Beyond the helmet, the Handbook recommends eye protection, a jacket, long heavy pants, over-the-ankle boots and full-fingered gloves.

Treat gear as part of the purchase. A well-fitted helmet and jacket you actually want to wear will do more for you than a few extra horsepower.

Insurance

Get insurance quotes before you choose a bike; the Handbook suggests checking your coverage before you buy or ride. California’s minimum financial responsibility limits are $30,000 for injury or death to one person, $60,000 for more than one person, and $15,000 for property damage. Ask what higher limits would cost; the minimum is only a floor.

Two things that may help: the CHP says passing the CMSP training course could result in insurance breaks, and the IIHS reports that collision claims for motorcycles with ABS are filed 25% less often than for motorcycles without it. Ask your insurer what they recognize.

Take a test ride

Spec sheets get you to a short list. Riding the bike decides it. Pay attention to how the clutch engages, how the bike feels at low speed, and whether you feel relaxed or tense after ten minutes. If you are still on a permit, sitting on bikes and comparing fit is still worth the trip.

One more reason to start sensibly: the Handbook notes that more than half of all collisions involve riders with less than six months of experience. A bike that feels easy gives you room to learn.

Questions riders ask

What is a good first motorcycle?

One that fits you, feels manageable at low speed and has ABS. For most new riders that points to a 350, 400 or 650 with an upright position, but fit matters more than any category.

Is a 650 too much for a beginner?

Not necessarily. Many riders start on a 650 twin and do well. If you are new to riding and smaller in stature, a 350 or 400 may build confidence faster. Sit on both and ride both if you can.

How tall do I need to be?

There is no set height. Seat height, seat width and suspension all change how a bike feels. Try lower accessory seats where they exist, and aim to get at least the balls of both feet on the ground.

Should I take a course before buying?

Yes. If you are under 21 in California, the CMSP course is required for your license anyway. Even over 21, a course teaches you what feels right on a bike before you spend money on one. Our California permit guide walks through the steps.

How SCM can help

We would rather you leave with the right bike than any bike. Come to our showroom in Brea, North Orange County, sit on as many models as you like, and ask anything. We can help with gear fitting, set up a test ride, or show you what is in our inventory. New-rider questions are always welcome at our contact page.

Specifications are the manufacturers’ published figures, checked October 11, 2026. Legal points checked against the DMV and CHP pages on October 11, 2026; always confirm with the DMV.